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2008/01/25 § Deixe um comentário

SAO PAULO FASHION WEEK ROUND-UP
NOWHERE does life imitate art better than in Brazil. Bold, beautiful and bizarre, Sao Paulo Fashion Week off the runway was just as exciting as some of the concoctions parading past the front rows last week. Alexandre Herchcovitch’s hell-raising hat party at Clube Gloria kept the alternative crowd raging until breakfast, while throngs of young socialites in little more than feathers and diamonds teetered out of designer Tufi Duek’s mansion in time to admire the sunrise. Ever the provocateur, Cavalera took the fashion pack beyond the comfort of the swanky Jardins district by herding them down the murky River Tiete on a derelict boat in gas masks and protective gear. Once at the toxic site, the cheeky brand presented its colourful street couture as a mock nuclear reactor meltdown – meant to highlight the city’s pollution problem. Back at Ibirapuera Park, Maria Bonita’s collection of graceful, experimental knits was accompanied by a woman serenading bossanova covers of Madonna’s recent electro dance hits. Up-and-coming designer Fabia Bercsek turned the catwalk into a mosh pit for tough girl muses wearing shimmering leather jackets over vibrant chiffon frocks. On the other side of the playground, nerdettes took their heads out of the books to go to the prom for Gloria Coelho’s show of satin dresses and matching specs. Combining primitive and futuristic prints, the vivacious resortwear duo Neon rolled models out on platforms over train tracks in place of a runway. Isabela Capeto took inspiration from a rival megalopolis, the streets of Tokyo, and mixed in her trademark embellishments for a more high energy take on bohemian romance. Lino Villaventura’s adept hand transformed bulky organic textiles into lithe, exotic eveningwear while Reinaldo Lourenco went for medieval flourishes on his strapless cocktail dresses and outerwear. Lifestyle brand Ellus entered industrial punk territory with dayglow T shirts, cage skirts and ruffled smocks and Tereza Santos knitted herself back to the Seventies. And it was left to Osklen’s Oscar Metsavaht to reclaim his beach roots by embracing the theme ‘surf in the city’ and sum up Brazil’s essential wardrobe. (January 22 2008, AM)Robb Young

www.vogue.co.uk

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